Myrrh is a gum resin that is obtained from the Commiphora myrrha
trees native to Yemen and Somalia. Its scent is often described as being exotic. It is not an easy scent to work with so needs to be in the hands of a seasoned perfumer, to avoid overpowering a perfume. A perfumer, Calice Becker once said 'that myrrh is to a perfumer like butter is to a chef, it enriches the flavour!' Myrrh is described as being haunting and can be more tender or heavy in perfumes. Estee Lauder Beautiful is known to have a dash of Myrrh in it.
In today’s perfumery there are very few perfumes that do not contain musk. It is the intensity that varies. A perfume without musk is often considered as incomplete. Philip Kraft notes in his great overview of musks, “the more one studies its character [that of natural musk tincture], the more contrasting, vibrant and oscillating it becomes: repulsive–attractive, chemical–warm, sweaty–balmy, acrid–waxy, earthy–powdery, fatty–chocolate-like, pungent–leathery, resinous–spicy, fig-like, dry, nutty and woody, to give just some impressions” (144). The abstraction of these complex impressions into “warm, sweet, powdery and extremely sensual” is what can be understood whenever “musky” tonality is mentioned.
Musk is no longer obtained from the musk deer. The bans brought the rise of chemical based musk formulations which were cheaper and more ethical. The variations are astounding. Ambrette seed oil, galbanum oil and angelica root oils allow for the isolation of elements that have a musky character. In fine fragrances, compositions usually include a cocktail of different musks due to the fact that anosmia (inability to smell) musks are extremely widespread. Beta-ionones (chemical components) in the musk cause ‘short circuiting’. I found this astounding!
Perfume is so often associated with romance. I hope that you will be romanced with a beautiful bottle of perfume this Valentine's Day! To spoil your loved one Perfume Power has the following perfumes in the Ajmal Range: Entice, Sacred Love, Ignite, Yearn, Lure and much more. For women and men.
Acknowledgements: Bois de Jasmin
Written by: Diana Rankin
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